CNC Router Build-20

Some more parts almost done, The Yaxes Beam is made up of 3 parts. Machining for
the linear rail mounting is still to be done, I may take the pockets right
through the centre section after testing, the Beam centre plate has the pockets
on both sides now

CNC Router Build-19

Here is some more machined parts for the X & Z axes parts are finished, a different design for the X & Z carriage assembly, Enjoy

CNC Router Build-18

I found this Cabinet to put the Router on, apart from needing some extra Stiffening, it should be a great stand for this machine, It will have all the Electronics mounted inside & with some extra panel work in the back, will make the Electronics very easy to mount, with very good access

Next I will be building the Y & Z axes carriage

CNC Router Build-17

Proximity switch mounts & cable clamps for this axes were made, with some spare’s, some photos of the proximity switches mounted with the custom made cable clamps in place, Almost ready to test run this axes

CNC Router Build-16

The next part was machined on a Bridgeport Boss 5 CNC Mill, I built many years ago, This part is the  link between the Ballscrew & the linear rails & is almost complete,This plate is located on the linear bearing plates by 1/4″ dowel pins & 5/16″ SHCS, Just the Ballnut mount to be made to make this axes ready for some power on the servo to see how it moves

CNC Router Build-15

Finishing the Ballscrew after machining, First it was debured at the shoulder, then a Bush /sleeve was made to go up against the shoulder on the screw, this can be used for a seal to run on if need be, To stop dirt dust,Etc from getting into the bearings, a Keyway was cut in the end of the screw shaft, along with a thread in the end of the Screw as well, This thread in the end of the Screw, will hold everything together along with the preload on the bearings as well

Bearings, There is many different bearings that could be used, a photo of just (2) types that could be used, The (1) piece anguler contact bearing, is fixed & has no way to make any backlash ajustments, & they have a very small amount of backlash, This type is fine for a wood router, the other (2) bearings can be ajusted by shims, or by grinding the bearing faces to get the right loading with zero backlash, You need to have a tenth surface grinder to do this, or shims work ok, On this one I disassembled the bearings & ground them, The Bearing parts were then demagnetized cleaned & assembled, & tested for any backlash, This was all Good, so the Bearings had some grease put in them for final assembly

The next part was a spacer that goes between the Bearings & Pulley this had the faces ground for a perfect fit against the bearing face & the pulley, the pulley was then bored to size & a keyway cut in it, Before I could cut the keyway I made a Bush for this size to match the Broach

In place of the pulley a coupling could be used for a direct drive, it would be mounted the same way as the pulley

A key was then milled for a tight fit in the pulley & screw, everything was then ready for assembly

Before final assembly all the parts that are metal (Steel) were demagnetized

CNC Router Build-14

After the centre hole was machined in the end of the screw, It was moved out 3″ & set up again for machining for the thrust bearings & drive, with the Screw indicated at the chuck & at the centre 0.0, It was ready for machining, I use a carbide insert to rough turn down the hardened Screw to within .020 of finish size, I then changed the insert for a special insert made from pure Titanium these are amazing inserts & as you will see in the photos, they will give you a near ground finish

CNC Router Build-13

Next was to set up the Screw in the lathe, The Lathe I’m going to use for the machining of the Screw,Was made in the 1960s, I salvaged it from almost total distruction 20years ago & rebuilt it, Colchester made a lot of great machines, But these were one of the best tool room lathes they made, I did not repaint it, this is the original paint, so it’s around 50years old with features only some manual lathes have today

I made a bushing to go inside the spindle to support the Screw near the unsupported end,
this is a must when machining a long length in any Lathe, An unsupported long shaft when machining will move around/vibrate & give you a bad finish on the part you are trying to machine

Once the bushing was done & in place, the 4 jaw chuck was used, with 4 pieces of .125 aluminum to protect the Screw from any jaw damage, when using a indicator, I place a .015 feeler gauge between the Screw & the indicator, the feeler gauge has to be held in the tool post a little lower than the top of the Screw, this slides smooth on the Screw & the indicator can do it’s job

When the end of the Screw was set up 0.0 I put a centre in the Screw & rough turned a short piece of the Screw

CNC Router Build-12

I got started on the Ballscrew Next

To shorten, The first thing to do is to take the Ball-Nut off the Screw, without messing it up

You need to make a mandrel/sleeve to the root diameter of the Screw & long enough for the Nut, With an ID to fit on the end of the Screw, Then you can just rotate the Nut untill it’s on your mandrel/sleeve, When that is done & the Nut is secure on the mandrel/sleeve, you are ready to cut the screw to length

Cutting the Screw can be done alot of different ways,with a lot of different machines, even with a Dremel, the most important thing with cutting a Screw is not to get it HOT as this will change the hardness in that area of the Screw, So for this Screw,because it is short, I will do it on my surface grinder with a standard cutoff wheel, this is quick & easy to set up, & it does not get Hot doing it on this machine

CNC Router Build-11

Nexted I CNC Machined the Ballscrew Thrust bearing Housing, & the Ballscrew support Bearing Housing 

Photos of the Machined Blanks to the  completed Ballscrew Bearing Housings