Step 1: Acknowledgements

First off, I would like to thank my wife Julie, who has stood by me through the best and worst times. I also want to thank my daughter Trinity, who made me realize that there is much more to life than money. Finally I want to thank the good Lord for all he has blessed me with and for finally giving me the insight to realize that giving can be as good as receiving.

Step 2: Forward and Safety

Forward

While the main materials that we are going to be working with are Melamine (MDF will work just as well) and 8020 Brand aluminum extrusions, rest assured that you can work both of these materials with common power woodworking tools. A list of needed items will include a table saw, power miter saw, drill press, and various other items such as wrenches, drill bits, etc. Our target audience is people wanting to build a woodworking cnc router and have access to woodworking tools to do so. If you are one of the many people out there that do not have access to power woodworking tools, we have designed this router so that you can simply order the major parts from the proper vendors with all the machine work done and simply bolt it together with a couple of wrenches. For example, you can order all of the aluminum extrusions already cut to length and tapped for bolts directly from 8020. We have included a complete materials list. This list will contain part numbers, material sources, and quantities of each item. If you decide to produce the items yourself, I have also provide CAD drawing of each part that needs machined with all necessary dimensions. We are going to break this manual up into multiple chapters with each being a “milestone” so to speak in the construction of your router. It is highly recommended that you follow the construction process is the order in which it is presented. We will discuss the construction each of the x, y, and z
axis individually, and then move on to some brief electronics and software recommendations to help you get started. Please keep in mind that this is not the “only” way to build a cnc router. It is only a way that I have found to work and work rather well using off the shelf parts with minimal fabrication and also keeping the cost down.

Safety

This manual was written with the assumption that the person reading it has the necessary experience and common sense to make this CNC router. If you do not have the proper skills to use the tools to build this machine by yourself, please get some help from someone who does. Always work safely. Use the proper tools for the job / task at hand, and always wear safety glasses when in the shop. We assume no responsibility for accidents, mishaps, screwups that result from the use of this manual. Please be safe and have fun.

Step 3: Parts and Tools

Below is a part list for the 8020/Hybrid

In addition to these standard parts, you will need access to a CNC machine to make the following parts.

Tools

This is a recommended tool list that you will need to construct this CNC router. It is pretty complete, but individual builders may chose different tools. It assumes that you have a way to machine the Melamine parts.
1. ½” Wrench
2. Ratchet with ½” socket
3. Phillips Screwdriver
4. Flat Screwdriver
5. Large pliers or channel locks
6. 7/16” Wrench
7. Ratchet with 7/16” socket
8. Metal cutting saw of some sort for cutting aluminum angle – proper carbide blade in a Miter Saw will work if caution is used.
9. Miter Saw, jig saw or other method for cutting delrin
10. Drill press (hand powered drill could be used but I feel a drill press would be safer and more accurate).
11. 5/16-18 Tap
12. ½-13 Tap
13. 1 1/8” Drill bit
14. ¾” Drill bit
15. ¼” Drill bit
16. 5/16” Drill bit
17.7/16” Drill bit

Step 4: X Axis

X Axis
Note: all PN are our PN not manufactures #
1. Begin by locating the 2 X Axis Rails (PN 2436-01-04). Be sure the parts are cut to correct length and the end holes are tapped.
2. Connect the X Axis Endplate (Bearing End – PN 2436-01-03) to the 2 X axis Rails with (4) 5/16 – 18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and 5/16” washers. Be sure to use the lower holes of the endplate. The 1 1/8” diameter bearing hole will be at the upper half of the endplate when installed. Your
assembly should look like this:

3. Assemble the 4 8020 Brand #6725 Linear Bearings (PN 2436-01-05). Do not worry about using the shims that are provided at this time. Set these aside for later use.
4. Install the 4 bearings onto the X Axis Rails. Place 2 of the bearings onto each rail. Your assembly should look like this:

5. Connect the X Axis Endplate (Motor End – PN 2436-01-02) to the 2 X axis Rails with (4) 5/16 – 18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and 5/16” washers. Be sure to use the lower holes of the endplate. The 1 1/8” diameter bearing hole will be at the upper half of the endplate when installed. Your assembly should look like this:

6. Connect the 2 x axis cross members (PN 2436-01-06) to the bearings using (16) 5/16-18 hex head bolts ¾” long and (16) 8020 brand t nuts. The cross members are to be bolted up through the holes in the bearings with the t nuts fitting into the T-Slots. I found it easier to loosely install the bolts w/ the T-nuts onto the bearings and then slide the crossmenber connectors onto the T-Nuts, position correctly and then snug bolts. The cross members should be flush to the outside of the bearings. Your Assembly should look like this:

7. Connect the X Axis Cross Member Connector (PN 2436-01-07) to the X Axis Cross Members using (6) 5/16”-18 hex head bolts 1 1/4” long, (6) 5/16” washers and (6) 8020 Brand T-Nuts. Use the 6 holes closest to the perimeter of the board. Again, it was easier for me to install the bolts and T nuts and then slide the part onto the extrusions. Be sure the board is flush with the edges of the cross members and try to center it on the extrusions. Your assembly should look like this:

8. Install the X Axis Nut Carrier (PN 2436-01-10) on the X Axis Cross member Connector . Use (2) 5/16-18 Hex Head Bolts 1 ½” long, (4) 5/16” Washers, and (2) 5/16” hex Head Nuts. Your assembly should look like this:

9. Install the (2) X Axis End Bearing (PN 2436-01-12) into the X Axis Endplate (Bearing End) – One from each side. This is simply a press fit. Your assembly should look like this:

10. Install the X Axis Lead Screw Nut (PN 2436-01-11) to the X Axis Nut Carrier using (2) ¼-20 Hex Head Bolts 1“ long, (4) Washers, and (2) Hex Nuts. Your assembly should look like this:

At this point the X Axis is complete other than the Lead Screw. We will wait until later to install this item. If we install it now, it will keep us from being able to adjust (shim) the motion of the X Axis. We will also wait to adjust the motion of the X Axis until the remainder of the machine is complete. This is because we want to have the weight of the complete machine on the X Axis when adjusting.

Step 5: Y Axis

1. Bolt the Y Axis Endplate (Bearing End PN 2436-02-03) to the ends of the X Axis Cross members using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and 4 5/16” washers. Your assembly should look like this:

2. Bolt the Y Axis Endplate (Motor End PN 2436-02-02) to the ends of the X Axis Cross members using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and 4 5/16” washers. Your assembly should look like this:

3. Assemble the 4 8020 Brand #6724 Linear Bearings (PN 2436-02-05). Do not worry about using the shims that are provided at this time. Set these aside for later use.
4. Slide the 2 Bearings from step number 3 onto the Y Axis Rails (PN 2436-02-04). Place 1 bearing onto each rail.
5. Install the Y Axis Rails onto your assembly using (8) 5/16-18 Hex Head Bolts 1 ¼” long and (8) 5/16” Washers. Your assembly should look like this:

6. Install the (2) Y Axis End Bearings (PN 2436-02-09) into the Y Axis Endplate (Bearing End). This is simply a press fit. Your assembly should look like this:

7. Connect the Y Axis Carriage (PN 2436-02-10) to the Y Axis Bearings Using (6) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 1/2“ long, (6) 5/16” Washers, and (6) 5/16” Hex Nuts. Pay close attention to the holes that are used to do this. Your assembly should look like this:

8. Close Up of the Y Axis Carriage Plate attached to the Y Axis Bearings to show which holes are to be used.

9. Install the Y Axis Nut Carrier (PN 2436-02-11) Using (2) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¾” Long, (2) 5/16” Washers, and (2) 5/16” hex nuts. View From the Front:

10. View from the back.

11. Install the Y Axis Nut (PN 2436-02-12) onto the Y Axis Nut Carrier with (2) ¼-20 Hex Head Bolts 1 1/4” long, (4) ¼” Washers, and (2) ¼” hex nuts. Your Assembly should look like this:

12. At this point the Y Axis is complete other than the Lead Screw. We will wait until later to install this item. If we install it now, it will keep us from being able to adjust (shim) the motion of the Y Axis. We will also wait to adjust the motion of the Y Axis until the remainder of the machine is complete. This is because we want to have the weight of the complete Z Axis on the Y Axis when adjusting. Overall View with Y Axis Components Assembled:

Step 6: Z Axis

1. We will begin the Z Axis as a separate assembly and when it is completed, we will bolt it onto the Main Assembly as a whole.

2. Begin with the Z Axis Rails (PN 2436-03-02). Be sure that these rails have all of the end holes drilled and tapped for 5/16-18 threads.
3. Attach the Z Axis Top Plate (Motor End PN 2436-03-03) on to the Z Axis Rails using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and (4) 5/16” washers. Your assembly should look like this:

4. Assemble the (4) 8020 Brand #6826 Linear Bearings (PN 2436-03-05). Do not worry about using the shims that are provided at this time. Set these aside for later use.
5. Install the 2 Z Axis Linear Bearings onto the Z Axis Rails. Your assembly should look like this:

6. Attach the Z Axis Lower Plate (Bearing End – PN 2436-03-04) on to the Z Axis Rails using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and (4) 5/16” washers. Your assembly should look like this:

7. Attach the Z Axis Carriage Plate (PN 2436-03-06) to the Z Axis Linear Bearings by using (8) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 1/2” Long, (8) 5/16” washers, and (8) 5/16” hex nuts. Be sure to align the top of the plate with the top of the bearings and also not which holes are to be used for
assembly at this time. Your assembly should look like this:

8. Attach the Z Axis Nut Carrier (PN 2436-03-07) to the Z Axis Carriage / Bearing Assembly using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 1/2“ long, (4) 5/16” washers, and (4) 5/16” hex nuts. Your assembly should look like this:

9. View from the back side.

10. Use the shims that were provided with the Z Axis Bearings and shim them so that the majority of the slop is taken out of the motion. Be sure to shim the assembly evenly and also not to over shim it as it will become to tight and not slide freely.
11. Attach the Z Axis Nut (PN 2436-03-08) to the Z Axis Nut Carrier using (2) ¼-20 hex head bolts 1 1/4” long, (4) ¼” washers, and (2) ¼” hex nuts. Your assembly should look like this from the back side:

12. Insert the (2) Z Axis End Bearings (PN 2436-03-09) into the Z Axis End Plate (Bearing End). This is simply a press fit. Your assembly should look like this:

13. Slide the Z Axis Lead Screw PN 2436-03-10) through the Z Axis Upper Plate. Align the Lead Screw and the Z Axis Nut. When you Reach the Nut, begin threading the lead screw into the nut. Continue until the lead screw is a about 4 inches through the lead screw nut. Install one of
the Lead Screw End Nut (PN 2436-03-11) on to the end of the Z Axis Lead Screw (towards the bearing end) Continue threading until the Lead Screw End nut is threaded onto the Lead screw approximately 2”. Continue threading the hole assembly through the Lead screw nut until the
End nut bottoms out onto the End bearing. Attach the second Lead screw end nut onto the lead screw on the outside of the assemble effectively sandwiching the end bearings between the 2 lead screw end nuts. Your assembly should look like this from the back side:

14. Attach the Motor Mounts (PN 2436-03-12) using (4) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 3 ½“ long, (8) 5/16” Washers, and (4) 5/16” hex nuts. It is not necessary to install your router at this time, and will be beneficial if you wait until later to install it. Your assembly should look like this:

Step 7: Final Assembly

1. Begin by attaching the entire Z Axis Assembly to the Y Axis Carriage with (8) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 1/2” long, (8) 5/16” washers and (8) 5/16” 8020 Brand T-Nuts. I have found it easiest to install the bolts and the T-Nuts through the Y axis carriage and then slide the Z Axis Assembly
onto the t-Nuts. You will need to remove the Z-Axis Lower plate from the assembly to do this. There are only 8 free holes at this time in the Y Axis Carriage / Bearings. Be sure to use all 8. Reattach the Z Axis Lower Plate when done. Your assembly should look like this:

2. Use the shims that were provided with the Y Axis Bearings and shim them so that the majority of the slop is taken out of the motion. Be sure to shim the assembly evenly and also not to over shim it as it will become to tight and not slide freely.

3. Slide the Y Axis Lead Screw PN 2436-02-06) through the Y Axis End Plate (Motor End). Align the Lead Screw and the Y Axis Nut. When you Reach the Nut, begin threading the lead screw into the nut. Continue until the lead screw is a about 8 inches through the lead screw nut. Install one of the Lead Screw End Nuts (PN 2436-02-07) on to the end of the Y Axis Lead Screw (towards the bearing end) Continue threading until the Lead Screw End nut is threaded onto the Lead screw approximately 2”. Continue threading the hole assembly through the Lead screw nut until the End nut bottoms out onto the End bearing. Attach the second Lead screw end nut onto the lead screw on the outside of the assemble effectively sandwiching the end bearings between the 2 lead screw end nuts. Your assembly should look like this:

4. Use the shims that were provided with the X Axis Bearings and shim them so that the majority of the slop is taken out of the motion. Be sure to shim the assembly evenly and also not to over shim it as it will become to tight and not slide freely.

5. Slide the X Axis Lead Screw PN 2436-01-08) through the X Axis End Plate (Motor End). Align the Lead Screw and the X Axis Nut. When you Reach the Nut, begin threading the lead screw into the nut. Continue until the lead screw is a about 4 inches through the lead screw nut. Install one of the Lead Screw End Nut (PN 2436-01-09) on to the end of the X Axis Lead Screw (towards the bearing end) Continue threading until the Lead Screw End nut is threaded onto the Lead screw approximately 2”. Continue threading the hole assembly through the Lead screw nut until the End nut bottoms out onto the End bearing. Attach the second Lead screw end nut onto the lead screw on the outside of the assemble effectively sandwiching the end bearings between the 2 lead screw end nuts. . Your assembly should look like this:

6. Install the 2 Table Support pcs. These install into the remaining 4 holes of each end of the x axis endplates. These are fabricated identically to the X Axis Rails. Attach them using (8) 5/16-18 hex head bolts 1 ¼” long and 8 5/16” Washers. Your assembly should look like this:

7. Install the table onto the top of your table supports. Screw it down by screwing through the table and into the X axis Endplates.
8. The mechanical portion of your router is now complete. You will need to still install stepper motors onto each of the 3 axis and attach them to the lead screws with the proper sized coupler.

Step 8: Software and Hardware

Controller Boards
For the home CNC enthusiast, there are several types of controllers for use on a home built CNC Router. The basics are simply how much you want to spend and how big of stepper motor that you will need to control. The controller that I have used successfully and recommend is the Xylotex 3 axis board. Xylotex offers a 3 axis kit complete with controller, stepper motors, power supply as well as a couple of other things. You can find this controller at www.Xylotex.com. This is an easy to setup and controls the 276 OZ/IN stepper motors that I use on my machine very well. Cost is around $150.00 (controller only) to about $350.00 (complete kit) and the support is simply wonderful. Keep in mind the voltage limits of this controller.
A second option is the controllers from Gecko. You can find these at www.geckodrive.com. These controllers are of high quality and are capable of running quite a bit better stepper motor then the Xylotex board. These are single axis controllers and as a result, you will need 3 of
them to operate this machine. At a cost of about $150.00 each, that will total about $450.00 for the 3 of them.
The 3rd option that some DIY decide to choose is to build your own controller. I am not an electrician, but there are plenty of kits on the web that I have heard work very well and may be an option for some people.
Power supplies
You will also need a power supply matched to your motors and controller card. One good source for these is MPJA at www.mpja.com. Reasonable prices and good service in my limited experience with them. As with the controller boards, some people choose to build there own power supply. Again, do a search on the web and you will find lots of information.
Software

You will need basically 3 types of software for your router. First is a CAD program to draw the items that you want your router to cut out. There are several of these programs out there such as AutoCAD, TurboCad, IntelliCad, etc. Pick one that is easy to learn if you do not have access to one already. I personally prefer TurboCad and you can find a free demo version on there website at www.TurboCad.com.
The second type of software will be a Cam program. The reason for this software is to convert the DXF files that are produced in the CAD software and convert them to a code that is readable by your controller software which we will discuss next.
Controller Software

Controller software is responsible for reading the code generated by your CAM software and sending it to your controller card and telling your steppers which direction to move. There are several brands of this software, but we are only going to discuss two of them. The first software that I have used is called TurboCNC. This is a low-cost software available from DAK Engineering at http://www.dakeng.com/turbo.html. The main benefit of this software is that it will operate on a computer with minimal resources. It will run on any computer providing that it is:

• 486-66 PC or better with math coprocessor

• DOS or DOS base operating system (or WIN 3.1, 95/98)

Older computers will run this software very well.
The second software that works very well is Mach2. This is a reasonable priced software available from ArtSoft Software Incorporated at www.artofcnc.ca This software is for those people who prefer a windows environment and also have a computer capable of running it.
Both of these companies offer a free trial download of there software and a registration fee is minimal. Use the free download to try the software and when you find a product you like, please pay the registration fee. Support by both of these companies is also great.